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Making Sense of: Fragrances’ Scent and Gender
This exploratory, yet argumentative written work will delve deeper into understanding the history, functionality, and phenomenon regarding gender implication of fragrances. Fragrance, in of itself is innately abstract. merely a noun and seemingly neutral (in terms of functionality).
Foundational Understanding
Historical Context and Functionality
Fragrance is defined by the Online Etymology Dictionary, as a noun that has a “cylindrical body of tallow, wax, etc., formed on a wick and used as a source of artificial light.” At its very foundation, there are three distinct components of a candle: fat, fiber, and fire. Fat/tallow, etymologically, was widely used in the earliest production of what we now consider the ‘wax’ component of a candle. To illustrate an early cultural [caste] implication due to candles, consider in research from Baker et al:
Tallow was widely used in the production of the first candles. “In the 1500’s, beeswax was introduced as an alternative to tallow. Beeswax candles burn brighter and longer with less smoke, and they smell better than tallow candles. However, beeswax was more difficult to obtain, which meant that beeswax candles were used almost exclusively by the upper classes and the Church in Europe during this time.
Over the centuries, Fiber synonymously wick, has been comprised of differing elements such as flax, hemp, and/or cotton. The most essential component of a candle is fire. Fire is the element that animates and ignites (literally and figuratively) a candle’s distinct ambience.
Historically, the earliest version of the candle is credited to Ancient Egyptians (National Candle Association – NCA). Although candles were known since the time of Egyptians, they were not yet widely used in ancient Greece – Greeks used oil lamps for sources of light as oil was inexpensive. Unlike the Greeks, early Etruscan’s fleeting dominance over the Romans lead to the lasting discovery and utilization of (dipped) candles to ignite their great empires and influence (Harper). The need for candles in the early centuries was extremely basic. The necessity of bringing light to one’s home, aiding travelers in the night, and to observe (non)religious occasions. According to the NCA “since their initial use, [candles] are no longer used as a major source of light [yet] continue to grow in popularity and use.” In fact, common uses of candles “symbolize celebration, romance, soothe the senses, and accent home décors — casting a warm and lovely glow for all to enjoy” (NCA).
Cultural Implications
Candles come in all shapes, sizes, scents, and colors amongst a vast majority of physical features. Traditionally candles did not have attributes of a specific gender. Yet even candles have become consumed and readjusted to, conform by, and adhere to, gender specific terms and roles prevalent in society today. ‘Gendering’ candles and its perceived ambiance is a recent phenomenon. Candles assuming a ‘gender’ has to do with the process in which candles are designed and characterized to possess gender specific traits. For example, candles aimed towards men are usually indicative of ‘manly’ scents such as pine, cedar, charcoal, and whiskey. Likewise, colors allude to the ‘gender’ of candles. Colors on the neutral or darker side of the color spectrum are more likely to attract a male audience than a candle that is bright pink and sparkly. Inversely, candles that are colorful or have a fruity scent are indicative of femininity and therefore, more appealing to the female consumer. Like many man-made objects, candles and its scents have become involuntarily gendered – consider Classen, Howes, & Synnott’s more concise iteration:
Smell is a social phenomenon, given particular meanings and values by different cultures. They can enforce social structures or transgress them, unite people or divide them, empower or disempower.
The scent and color associated with candles is what overtly gives it a gender. As humans, we naturally attribute gender stereotypes to even the most unimportant aspects of our lives, the inanimate. Additionally, we (humans) possess an innate desire to feel some type of ‘connection’ to the objects, in this case candles, we purchase and consume. When we hold a candle, smell, and notice the colors – the nuances of these practices allow us to connect with certain candles, more deeply, over others. Much like consumers, the designers of candles assume gender stereotypes. Take for example the designers and marketers of Yankee Candle’s 2014 line of “Man Candles” which was catered specifically towards male consumers. With candle names such, as “2 X 4,” “First Down,” and “Man Town” only furthering “a gendered division of household labor or a gendered understanding of “masculine” American men’s leisure activities – the brief scent descriptions laden with fantasies of masculine escape and abandon.” This marketing blunder is a quintessential example of how we perceive scents as having gender-specific roles. Yankee also reinforced a notion that “Gendered spaces aren’t complete without gendered smells” (Bridges).
In summation, candles and their scents have been gendered along with many man-made items. Over time, emitting scent versus light has become an essential function of a candle. Candles have been granted gendered ‘personas’ within society and command a kind of ‘identity.’ However, as long as the three components (fat, wax, and fire) of a candle are met, there is no mistaking a candle for another object that is to be burnt for the sake of scent, light, or ambience.
Citations
“Candle.” Online Etymology Dictionary, Douglas Harper, www.etymonline.com/word/candle.
Accessed 21 Oct. 2021.
National Candle Association. “History.” National Candle Association, Snowberry Media, 23
July 2020, candles.org/history.
Baker, Natasha, et al. “Smith College Museum of Ancient Inventions: Candles.” Smith College
History of Science, www.smith.edu/hsc/museum/ancient_inventions/candles2.html.
Accessed 21 Oct. 2021.
Classen, C., Howes, D., & Synnott, A. (1994). Aroma: The cultural history of smell. London:
Routledge.
Sturken, Marita, and Lisa Cartwright. Practices of Looking: An Introduction to Visual Culture.
3rd ed., Oxford University Press, 2017.
Bridges, Tristan. “Gendering Your Household by Smell.” Inequality by (Interior) Design, 16
Oct. 2012, inequalitybyinteriordesign.wordpress.com/2012/10/10/gendering-your-household-by-smell.
Intro
I’m Sofia and I chose to analyze the gender implications of fragrance. I chose this as my topic to analyze for my final project since it’s a particular interest of mine recently, as well as the fac that my object analysis paper was on the idea of candles and gender. This will be more specific obviously towards fragrance and the aspect of how scent has been influenced to become gender specific.
*Note: Fragrance and scent, within the context of this presentation and my paper, are synonymous (I am aware there are subtle differences, semantically, between these two words but for the simplicity of understanding this cultural phenomenon, I will be using them interchangeably).
Methodology
It will be an in-depth research paper focused on the fragrance/scent aspect and much less on the color, the packaging, and the advertising (like in my object analysis paper on candles) – focused on the broader understanding of the gendering of candles, including the colors, the names, the scent.
Argument
This is a more specific analyzation of why and how fragrances/scents are gendered.
Why: we as humans tend to, and have a desire to, classify. It’s in our nature to gender genderless aspects of our lives because it helps us navigate how we decide to act and understand the society and culture that surrounds us.
How:
For example, when I say a fragrance is made of notes of peony and vanilla, most are going to assume I am talking of a fragrance aimed at women.
Inversely, if I presented a fragrance with notes of oak and leather, most would assume a link to a masculine appeal.
Believing a scent has a specific gender, is the same as ensuing that “blue is for boys, and pink for girls”
Perfume was used for the same purposes, without classifications: initially to merely mask body odour, yet later, also worn to embellish, seduce, sublimate, and show social rank or culture.
Definitions
So first off,
The word perfume comes from the Latin phrase per meaning thorough and famous meaning smoke so in essence thorough smoke
Right away, we can see how fragrance is gendered. Linguistically speaking, the differences in the words used to describe feminine and masculine scents – perfume and cologne respectively. When in fact, the terms cologne and perfume only reference how much fragrance oil is in the mix.
Eau – water/watery solution
The word perfume comes from the Latin phrase.
Toilette is French
Eau de Cologne (simply cologne) is a perfume originating from Cologne, Germany.
Main difference lies in the concentration of essential oils in the fragrance’s water and alcohol base. Perfumes contain a higher concentration of oils, typically around 20 to 30 percent, while the oil concentration in cologne is around 2 to 4 percent.
Even the phenomenon of this the definitive difference between Cologne and perfume generally implies a woman scent/fragrance whereas Cologne is specifically made for men in kind of that whole argument even though fragrance has generally been an umbrella term used to describe just scent that is meant to be used by men and women alike.
Historical Context
interestingly enough the first form of perfume is considered to be incense which was first made by the Mesopotamians I think generally we have an understanding that incense isn’t perfume as we know now know it to be, but it does make the most sense in the fact that it burns and makes smoke and that you are physically immersed in it and is actually quintessentially, by this definition, perfume.
After the Mesopotamians um the most credit goes to the Egyptians as well as the development of perfume and just kind of the fragrance industry obviously went through all the different eras of the ancient Greeks the Arabs the Romans and you know obviously has continued to develop and been technologically advanced throughout Europe and France but it’s most historical common roots have been traced back to Egypt the elites of each the interjections would use perfume too adorn themselves and denote their social class mostly these perfumes were made from floral aromas such as Lily rose petals etc but it is absolutely key to note here these floral scents were both used by men and women alike and had were not gender specific and so it’s just kind of an interesting phenomenon where these floral scents used by ancient Egyptians both men and women have now come to be understood by modern culture and culture as feminine and not denoting any sort of social class whereas now the name the label the brands on the perfume is much more representational of wealth – well that is not the specific point of or arguments of this paper this is more in argument of kind of the phenomenon of floral sense being user bold genders to being gender specific and inversely the use of incense burning smoke um with more like masculine sense being used during religion religious ceremonies now being considered to be masculine and used as cologne for men
Functionality
I think it’s first important to note that although perfume does have a long history it has not always carried a hint of romance or then gender specific in fact perfume has been used simply to mask odor or hygiene problems didn’t know its social class or used more commonly before modern social influence in religious ceremonies and rituals. but this is more attune with the functionality aspect which i will touch on right after historical context.
So the functionality aspect of perfume or fragrance we generally as this society wear perfume to please others to leave a good impression to surround ourselves but they pleasing and lingering scent again ancient cultures burned a variety of residents in what other religious ceremonies that were gender neutral or just they didn’t even think about that in Egypt golden age perfumes were used only in religious rituals however priest began to relinquish these exclusive rights and citizens took the liberty of taking elaborate baths and soaked their skin and scented oils for pleasure perfume enjoyed huge success during the 17th century especially in France hygiene in those days is pretty spotty and fragrances were used to mask the unpleasant body orders. In England perfumes were used extensively during the reigns of Henry VIII and Queen Elizabeth I. All public places were scented during Elizabeth’s rule because she could not tolerate bad smells.
Gender Implications
Western gender-scent stereotypes appear to have their origins in 19th century Europe.
At that time in history, men and women had very distinct gender roles. Men of the middle class held white-collar jobs in the city center and strove to maintain a reputation of industriousness and toughness.This fundamental understanding of men as strong and cutting soon came to be mirrored in the aroma they wore to represent (even, dare we say, express) themselves. So, the men of 19th century Europe popularized woody, earthy-based scents to represent the qualities they associated with masculinity based on the societal expectations imposed on white collar employees working in the city.
On the other hand, women tended to fill their time with hearth and home once given the opportunity.
Ladies in 19th century Europe did place a high degree of importance on activities such as arranging flowers and cooking. For those reasons, floral fragrances and the aromas of sweet edible ingredients, like vanilla and fruit, gained popularity within middle-class women’s circles. Simultaneously, the lighter, more delicate scents which had previously only been available to the social elite became more accessible, thanks to the invention of synthetic fragrance compounds.
Neuroscience research shows us that the scents we’ve smelled during the creation of memories with maternal figures in our lives create neural pathways. From that point forward, those pathways link that fragrance type with femininity. The same phenomenon exists when we’re forming our understanding of what scents are inherently “masculine.” Did your dad wear Joop? Old Spice? Whatever it was, when you smell it now, it probably smells just like the quintessential “guy smell.”
methodology is a more in depth research paper focused on the scent aspect like much less in the color or the packaging or the advertising this is more specific on just sent again and in analyzation of why sounds like peni vanilla are considered feminine and vice versa senses such as tobacco and must consider more masculine um sounds get right into it this is some content overview kind of what I’m going to be going over in this presentation definitions historical context functionality and gender and cultural implications just kind of definitions for a foundational approach just so we all start in the same page historical context I always think it’s important to understand the history of subjects before you analyze kind of the modern nuances of them functionality obviously will pertain to the modern understanding of what fragrances and what what kind of gender roles play into the production of send and the perception of sent First off definitions fragrance is more of an umbrella term for and you’ll see later on like kind of the difference between performing Cologne fragrance generally speaking is a product there is from funding of certain difference substances and appropriate portions what difference means a distinct or sweet scent so that could be a number of things like a floral center kind of like a Piney woods he sends again this definition is not gender specific and actually does a really good job of just generalizing fragrance as like kinda sumbrella however we do see around the bags linguistically speaking the difference is in the words used to describe a feminine and masculine sense perfume and Cologne respectively but however should be noted that the terms climate perfume are only in reference to how much fragrance oil is in the mix and has nothing to do with gender however as society we have gendered perfume and Cologne for being feminine and masculine the word perfume comes involve Latin phrase per meaning thorough and famous meaning smoke we can obviously see the literal translation of this when someone sprays perfume and there’s a Mr Hayes and you walk through it it is a very throw smoke if you will a very thorough dusting of the scent of the they wanted sentence desired sentence and then secondly are they clone artola um is in reference to something toilet water which it’s really it’s interesting is the the French word both of these are French perfume for some reason originates from Latin but Cologne originate from French and I am French means water or watery solution day is up and Cologne actually is in reference to Cologne Germany this is where a lot of high and in very like kind of the mastery of Cologne took place and that’s why a lot of you know colognes now are cold in Cologne because and it just has a very strong history in Germany that I actually will not be able to get into but it is fascinating toilet paper is French as well and it is actually a small piece of cloth with specific reference to shaving and grooming thus This is why it’s been kind of turned into a typically masculine firm term for fragrance because of this reference to shaving and grooming um and kind of again to iterate perfume versus Cologne generally speaking objectively there it is really no different than the considered oil tration you used during the production so perfume has a 20 to 30% oil concentration in Cologne has a 2 to 4% oil concentration again there the original purpose to differentiate between the two was to kind of know the oil concentration but it’s been clearly gender in our modern society next we look at historical context again I always think it’s important to have a general understanding of the topic at hand so we can all start on the same page um I think it is important to note that although perfume does have a long history has not always carried a hint of romance or gender specific terminology in fact perfume has been used simply to mask odor or hygiene problems as well as denote social class and more commonly has been used in religious ceremonies and rituals but this is more in tune with the functionality aspect which I will touch on in the next slide so to understand stroke context generally the Egyptians are giving credit to the earliest developments of perfume obviously it’s went through the different eras with the agent Greeks the Arabs and the Romans and has been continued to be developed upon um the agent graves were actually the first to make the liquid perfume but it was the development of this dilation by the herbs that may perfume manufactured viable meaning that the arms were the ones too who were able to mass produce a consistent blend of fragrances and and the Egyptians were more it’s it’s how do I put this in so there’s turds in that bag tell your father so there’s cards in that bag are you serious